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steersmarts.com/collections/dodge-ram-2500-3500-parts-2012-2018/products/2013-2018-ram-2500-3500-upgraded-adjuster-sleeve-stock-draglink

@@SteerSmarts consider placing this info in the description

@@Rick_Rdz that is our 9/16th bolt upgrade - the bolt is longer so we run it with the bolt head on the backside and the nut on the front (closest the front bumper). The track bar bolt that comes with the vehicles is a 14mm bolt but the bushings are slightly larger at 9/16th, so our bolt upgrade kit is just a slightly larger bolt that is grade 8 and magnicoated. Let us know if you have any other questions about it!

@@Marie-kj3xf people don’t sit through entire installations from start to end. There is plenty of good info in this and the other videos. If you have questions about something specific please let us know - these components are pretty straight forward to install.

@@airmech73 it definitely works for all JL and JT models, including the Mojave - no issues.

@@SteerSmarts thank you!

@@BaptismOverland we just skipped threading it because it isn’t a step by step installation video and people won’t sit through and watch videos if they’re too long. When threading the ends make sure you have the correct end on the correct side of the tube - they are right and left hand threads and will only thread in on one side with the correct end.

@@SteerSmarts thank you. I did finally get it on but the paper instructions didn't specify which way to turn. Just a suggestion. Because it took awhile to figure out if it was catching or it's just spinning out. And then I couldn't find anything online. That being said I'm loving it though. Been really beefy on the trail! It's a damn tank

@@BaptismOverland sorry for the delay in response - it’s a crap shoot seeing comments on here. Can always reach out on our social pages or call/email. We have a number of instructions that we plan to revise as they were made when we first started and could use more detail. Sorry for the hiccup but glad you got it sorted and have been loving it since!

@@SteerSmarts totally fine! Glad to hear you guys are reworking the instructions. I've been very happy and now tempted to replace the other components soon

@@BaptismOverland let us know if you have any other questions about the other components we have available - they are top quality USA made products that definitely make a difference! Reach out on IG or FB and I can make sure to answer your questions and point you in the right direction.

😂 We're working on an application, and it does play Music, we just didn't have it going while we bombed through the dunes!

I’d recommend our pro series track bar, and then make sure you have the correct caster and toe settings

@@SteerSmarts If I already have the adjustable one, not the pro, what's the life expectancy before the bushings need to be replaced to the poly urethane ones? Trying to decide whether or not to install the one I already had purchased before the pro or just return it and buy the pro or hold off all together.

@@tonygaines6819 completely dependent on usage - we’ve had people use the rubber bushings for 100k, but if you do a lot of off-roading and are running 37+ tires you’ll def wear the rubber out sooner.

Arb diff has a slight interference where they made that fill plate on the top corner. A little bit of material ground down and some paint and it’ll clear with no issues though.

Tack bar relocation bracket is necessary when switching your drag link from the stock location (bottom mount) to the top side of the knuckle (top mount drag link). The reason it necessary when doing this is to keep the track bar and the drag link parallel. If you don’t relocate the track bar at the same time you will get bump steer and you will not enjoy the way the vehicle drives.

@@SteerSmarts yes I understand that part. What I’m asking is in the video you never disconnected the sway bars to start. But reconnect them at the end. I have already purchased your track bar relocation bracket and was watching your video before I installed it. I was looking at my Jeep and it doesn’t look like I need to disconnect my antirock sway bars to install your track bar relocation bracket. I guess that’s my question.

They cover the only portion of the ends that isn’t coated, so they keep those shiny portions getting surface rust and also are an added portion of resistance to helping keep water out of the joint. You don’t HAVE to run them, but they do have benefits.

@@SteerSmarts Thanks. Surprised they don’t come preinstalled

Any high quality synthetic will work, but we sell and use redline.

Should be on the ends on a tag near the stud - they also should have had tags between the nut and the plastic boot cover that calls out torque. Additionally, that information should be found in the installation instructions as well. Having said that, torque on the tapered stud end is 70-74 lb ft.

@@SteerSmarts appreciate the fast response!! I guess I should have downloaded the instructions via the website instead of just watching some UA-cam installation videos. 😂

That can happen because you’re disconnecting both the track bar and the steering box from the frame when you go to attach the bracket. Simply rotate the drag link adjuster one way or the other to get your steering wheel back to center.

45 lb ft on the clamp bolts for tie rod and drag link - front adjustable track bar clamp bolts are 65 lb ft

We have a new big bore box kit for this coming out soon - should have them ready to sell near the end of the month or just after.

Most track bars with adjusters at the ends are actually not solid, they are hollow and thin walled. The only part of our track bar that is no solid forged steel is the center section, and I can assure you that it will not be a weak point or problem. With the construction of our track bar, you will break a mounting bracket off of your axle or frame before you bend or break our bar. I would not listen to those who say otherwise. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.

We were on a bit of a time crunch and this was an employee jeep - he had just been to an OFFROAD park and was heading to one right after this was completed, so we didn’t spend the time cleaning it

Where are you located? We have a dealer locater on our website that may be able to help find a local authorized steer smarts dealer. If not send us a message with your location information and maybe we can help point you in the right direction.

@@SteerSmarts Thanks, I’m in Atlanta, GA

@@rness4135 fortec 4x4 in Roswell, Ga - JK Land in Douglasville - Southern OFFROAD in Alpharetta - Black Bear OFFROAD in Buford. There are others as well - you can look on our dealer locater by going to www.steersmarts.com/pages/store-locator

We have a sector shaft brace with track bar reinforcement bracket available for the JL/JT as well as the JK. We recommend anywhere from 5.5-6.5 degrees of caster on the JL/JT depending on the height of lift you’re running.

Thats a good question. If I had to guess, the material around the ball joint isnt enough to support pressing in and out, possibly. but thats not official or anything Im just thinking that may be it. Otherwise, its just industry standard to not do that, possibly for money but maybe other things considered.

Thank you for the suggestion - links for the boot seal tool as well as the 30mm boot seal have been added to the information.